With regards to the four Cs (cut, carat, color and clarity), cut is the most imperative since it decides a precious stone’s symmetry, extents, and aspects. While numerous trust it is the heaviness of a precious stone that matters most, it is the cut of a jewel that influences its brightness, shimmer, and toughness.
Since a jewels’ cut influences the general quality, precious stone cutters frequently consider shape and size when settling on a cut. The three most essential parts of a precious stone are the table, crown, and structure.
The table is the estimation over the highest point of a jewel. The crown is the tallness of the top part of the jewel from the support (where the structure and crown meet). The structure is the profundity of the precious stone from the base bit of the stone. The estimations in the table, crown, and structure influence its radiance, as well as how defects are shown.
Shine alludes to the smoothness of a precious stone’s features and is reviewed under 10x amplification. Symmetry alludes to the exactitude of the shape and arrangement of the features.
Poor shine will dull the surface of a precious stone by dulling its radiance. A precious stone with poor shine will have grainy lines, scratches, and scraped areas running over its features. Jewels with poor shine will appear as though they have to be cleaned. Poor symmetry can influence a precious stone’s capacity to reflect light. It will mislead light as it enters and ways out the stone.
A precious stone’s cut is evaluated on a scale of “Excellent” through “Poor.”
A diamond’s cut is graded by several measurements. The most important of these measurements is depth percentage and table percentage. The depth percentage is the measurement of a stone’s height against its width. Table percentage is the measurement of the diameter of the top facets against the stone’s average width. Diamond experts have long debated what is the best table size and depth for a diamond. Factors such as the crown angle, girdle thickness, cutlet size (the small area at the bottom of a diamond’s pavilion), polish and symmetry must also be taken into consideration since they too affect a diamond’s brilliance, fire and scintillation.
A diamond’s cut is graded on a scale of “Excellent” through “Poor.”
Excellent (E) | A diamond cut with a grade of ‘E’ will have maximum fire and brilliance. It reflects almost all the light that enters the diamond. Overall, this diamond has exceptional sparkle and life.
Very Good (VG) | A diamond cut with a grade of ‘VG’ will properly reflect most of the light that enters the diamond, creating excellent fire and brilliance. This cut appears very similar to ‘Excellent’ cut under normal lighting conditions.
Good (G) | A diamond cut with a grade of ‘G’ will reflect the majority of the light that enters the diamond with an above average appearance. This is an excellent value.
Fair (F) | A diamond cut with a grade of ‘F’ allows much of the light that enters to escape from the sides or bottom, dulling the fire and brilliance.
Poor (P) | A diamond cut with a grade of ‘P’ will allow most of the light to escape from the bottom and side which makes the diamond appear dull or dirty. The diamond may appear lifeless and dull even to the untrained eye.
Choosing the Right Cut
The measurements of the table, crown and pavilion affect not only the sparkle, but how flaws are displayed. Before deciding on a cut, consider which cuts emphasize sparkle and which cuts may emphasize flaws. Width and depth strongly affect how light enters and exits a diamond. Most diamonds are spread to help maintain the maximum weight from the original rough diamond. However, this may affect a diamond’s fire and brilliance.
An Emerald cut has the largest table, often requiring a flawless stone. If color or clarity is off in a stone, Emerald and Asscher cuts will make these flaws more pronounced.
Pear and heart shapes may reflect light strangely if the cut is not symmetrical.
Round cuts are best for brilliance. The most popular cut is the round brilliant which has been perfected by math and empirical analysis. This cut, traditionally, has 58 facets.
However, any cut can be negatively affected if its pavilion is too shallow or too deep. Shallow diamonds let light escape from from the bottom causing it to look watery. This is know as “fish eye.” A cut that is too deep leaks light from the sides causing brilliance to be lost and the center to look dark. This is known as “nail head.”